Retsina: Greece's Pine-Scented Wine Reconsidered

The Origins of Retsina

Retsina is perhaps the most iconic, yet frequently misunderstood, wine in the Greek canon. Its history spans thousands of years, tracing its roots back to ancient times when wine was stored in amphorae. To seal these clay vessels and prevent oxidation, producers used Aleppo pine resin to coat the stoppers and line the interiors. Over time, the wine absorbed the distinct, aromatic qualities of the resin, creating a flavor profile that became synonymous with Greek viticulture. While modern winemaking technology eventually rendered resin unnecessary for preservation, the taste for this unique, pine-scented wine persisted, evolving into a cultural staple.

The Craft of Resin Infusion

Modern Retsina is made by adding small amounts of Aleppo pine resin to the must during the fermentation process. The resin is typically harvested from pine forests, cleaned, and then introduced to the wine. Once fermentation is complete, the resin is removed, leaving behind a delicate, herbaceous aroma and a crisp, savory finish. While traditionally made from the Savatiano grape—a sturdy variety that thrives in the heat of the Attica region—winemakers now experiment with other varieties like Assyrtiko and Roditis to create more nuanced expressions of the style.

Regional Variations and Styles

While Retsina is produced across various parts of Greece, the style varies significantly based on the base grape and the intensity of the resin. Classic Retsina is typically pale, straw-colored, and bone-dry. However, the current generation of winemakers is crafting 'modern' Retsina, which emphasizes high-quality base wines and a more restrained use of resin. These versions are often lighter, more aromatic, and better suited for pairing with complex dishes. You may also encounter 'Kokkineli,' a rosé version of Retsina, which offers a slightly different texture and flavor profile, often pairing exceptionally well with grilled meats.

How to Enjoy Retsina Like a Local

In Greece, Retsina is rarely treated as a formal, contemplative wine; it is a sociable drink intended to accompany food. It is almost always served well-chilled, often in small, traditional carafes or simple glasses. The high acidity and resinous notes make it a perfect companion for the salty, oily, and tangy flavors found in a typical meze spread. It cuts through the richness of fried foods, balances the brine of olives, and complements the earthiness of wild greens and grilled octopus. Locals often drink it throughout a long lunch or dinner, finding that its refreshing nature keeps the palate clean between bites of various small plates.

What to Order

When dining at a traditional taverna, you will often find Retsina listed simply as 'xima' (bulk wine) or by the name of a specific producer. If you are new to the style, look for bottles labeled as 'modern' or 'premium' Retsina. These wines are often fermented at lower temperatures to preserve fruity aromatics, resulting in a more balanced experience. If you are feeling adventurous, the local house Retsina in a carafe is the quintessential way to experience the drink in its most rustic, authentic form.

Useful Greek Terms

• Krasí: Wine.
• Retsína: The resin-infused wine.
• Xima: Bulk wine, usually served in a carafe.
• Potíri: Glass.
• Mezé: Small plates of food served alongside drinks.
• Stin iyia sas: Cheers (literally: 'to your health').

Practical Tips

• Always ask for your Retsina to be served ice-cold. If it warms up, the resinous quality can become overwhelming.
• Pair your wine with salty appetizers such as feta, olives, fried zucchini, or grilled seafood to get the most out of the flavor profile.
• If you are visiting a winery, ask about their specific resin sourcing, as different regions use different species of pine which can subtly alter the final taste.
• Check locally for regional wine festivals where you can taste various styles of Retsina produced by smaller, independent vineyards.
• When in doubt, start with a bottled version from a reputable producer before diving into the bulk carafes at a local taverna.