Top Things to Do in Folegandros

Folegandros is one of the smaller inhabited islands in the Cyclades, and it feels it in the best possible way. There are no big resorts, no airport and very few cars. What you get instead is a rugged landscape of cliffs and terraces, a whitewashed hilltop capital that seems to hang over the Aegean, and a pace of life that encourages you to slow down. Here are the experiences that make the island worth the journey.

Wander the squares of Chora

The island's main village, Chora, sits on a clifftop high above the sea. Its lanes and houses are arranged around a sequence of linked squares, each one opening onto a different view. Wander without a plan and you will soon find yourself on a narrow alley lined with bougainvillea, a small church tucked into a corner, or a café terrace where the afternoon light turns the walls gold. The architecture is traditional Cycladic: flat roofs, cubic houses and carefully whitewashed doorways. Take your time here, because Chora is best appreciated on foot and at a leisurely speed.

Late in the day is a good time to explore, when the day-trippers have left and the village settles into its evening rhythm. Many of the squares become quiet enough to hear the sea below.

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Climb to the Panagia church

One of the island's most rewarding walks is the path up to the Panagia church, which winds up from the village in a series of zig-zag steps and switchbacks. The climb is steady rather than extreme, but it is steep enough to justify a stop or two along the way. Wear comfortable shoes, carry water, and avoid the hottest hours of midday in summer. At the top, the views reach across the rooftops of Chora to the open sea, and on a clear day you can make out neighbouring islands on the horizon. It is an excellent spot for sunrise or sunset, when the light and the stillness make the effort feel very worthwhile.

Take a boat trip to Katergo beach

Folegandros has beaches, but many of the best ones are not connected to the village by road. Katergo is the classic example. This pebbly cove is best reached by boat, which gives you a striking approach along the rugged coastline and a sense of how remote parts of the island remain. Boat excursions typically run during the warmer months and are often combined with stops at other swimming spots. Check locally for current departure arrangements, as schedules depend on the season and weather. Bring water, sun protection and something to eat, since facilities at secluded coves are limited or non-existent.

If you prefer to stay on land, some of the island's other beaches can be reached on foot or by local transport, though paths can be rough and it pays to plan ahead.

Explore the village of Ano Meria

Ano Meria is the island's second settlement and offers a quieter, more rural side of Folegandros. It is a good destination for a half-day outing, with a slower pace than Chora and a sense of everyday island life. Walk the lanes, look at the traditional houses and churches, and pause for a coffee or a simple lunch. Ano Meria is also a natural stop for anyone interested in the island's farming and agricultural traditions, which remain part of local life. Its calm atmosphere makes it a useful contrast to the busier scenes of the main village.

Eat matsata, the island's signature pasta

No visit to Folegandros is complete without trying matsata, a traditional handmade pasta closely associated with the island. It is usually served with a simple sauce, often featuring local produce and flavours that reflect the Cycladic kitchen: good olive oil, herbs and cheese. Look for it on restaurant menus in Chora, where tavernas take pride in homemade dishes. Pair it with a glass of local wine and a plate of fresh seafood if you can, and allow time for a long, relaxed meal. Eating well here is part of the experience rather than an afterthought.

Getting to Folegandros

Folegandros does not have an airport, so most visitors arrive by sea. The most convenient gateway is Santorini, which has an airport (JTR) with numerous international and domestic flights. From the port of Athinios on Santorini, high-speed catamarans and conventional ferries connect to Folegandros in roughly an hour. Alternatively, you can take a ferry from Piraeus in Athens, a journey that typically takes between four and eight hours depending on the vessel. Check locally for current timetables, as services vary by season.

Practical tips

• Book accommodation and boat excursions early in peak summer, as options are limited on a small island.
• Carry water and sun protection, especially for the Panagia climb and beach days.
• Wear sturdy footwear: Chora's lanes are steep and paved with uneven stone.
• Expect limited car access in the village; plan to walk or use local transport.
• Check ferry and boat schedules locally before you travel, as they change with the season and weather.
• Bring some cash for smaller tavernas and shops, and confirm card acceptance in advance.