Top Things to Do in Ithaca

Ithaca is one of the most rewarding islands in the Ionian Sea, and it is also one of the least crowded. It is the legendary home of Odysseus, the hero of Homer's Odyssey, and for many visitors that literary connection is the reason to come. But the island has plenty to offer beyond its mythology: sheltered harbours, traditional stone villages, walking routes through olive groves and pine woods, and quiet swimming coves. Here are the top things to do on Ithaca.

Explore Vathy, the island's capital and harbour

Most visits begin in Vathy, the main town and port. Its harbour is a long, sheltered inlet, ringed by neutral-toned houses and fishing boats, and it is one of the most attractive spots on the island for an unhurried coffee or a stroll along the waterfront. Vathy is a practical base, with tavernas, shops and accommodation, and it is a good place to pick up information and supplies before heading out to the villages and beaches.

Take time to walk the quay in the early morning or the evening, when the light on the water is at its softest and the town feels most relaxed.

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Wander through the villages of Kioni and Frikes

Ithaca's traditional villages are among its greatest pleasures. Kioni, on the north-east coast, is a picture-postcard fishing village set around a small, curved harbour. Its waterfront is lined with tavernas and its houses climb the hillside in terraces, many built from local stone with tiled roofs. It is a favourite for lunch by the water, and a good place to watch small boats come and go.

Frikes, on the north coast, is quieter and more understated. Its harbour is a pleasant spot for a walk and a meal, and it makes a good stop if you are touring the northern part of the island. Both villages reward slow exploration: the narrow lanes, the old churches and the views back across the water are as memorable as any single attraction.

Hike the island's trails

Ithaca is a superb island for walking. Its mountainous interior is crossed by paths and old tracks that link villages, monasteries and viewpoints, and the scenery changes constantly, from dry scrub and terraced olive groves to pine-scented slopes with wide views over the Ionian. Routes vary considerably in difficulty, so it is worth choosing a walk that suits your fitness and the weather. Wear proper footwear, carry water, and bring sun protection, as shade can be scarce on the exposed sections.

Many of the most rewarding walks head toward the island's hilltop monasteries and lookout points. The views from these high places, across to the neighbouring islands of Kefalonia and Lefkada on a clear day, are a highlight in their own right. Ask locally about current trail conditions before setting out, especially in the height of summer.

Visit the monasteries

Ithaca has several monasteries, many of them set in the hills and surrounded by quiet countryside. They are working religious sites, so dress respectfully and be mindful of any signs about entry and behaviour. Visiting them is often combined with a hike, which gives the outing a sense of purpose and a rewarding finish. Even if you are not inclined toward religious sites, the setting and the sense of calm around them make them worth the effort.

Swim at the pebble coves

Ithaca's coastline is indented with small coves and pebble beaches, many of them reached by a short drive along unpaved tracks or a walk down a narrow path. The water is typically clear and clean, ideal for snorkelling as well as swimming. Because many of these coves are small and not heavily developed, they feel more intimate than the busier beaches of the larger Ionian islands. Bring water shoes, since the pebbles can be uncomfortable underfoot, and take all your rubbish away with you.

Trace the Odyssey

For many visitors, the chance to connect the landscape with Homer's epic is the main draw. Ithaca's rugged terrain, its bays and its hills are often linked to the places described in the Odyssey, and there are sites across the island associated with the story of Odysseus and his return home. Whether or not you take the traditional identifications literally, the experience of looking out over the same sea that inspired one of the foundational works of Western literature is a powerful one. A good guidebook or local guide can help you make sense of the sites and their associations with the poem.

How to get to Ithaca

Ithaca is most often reached through Kefalonia. Kefalonia International Airport (EFL) is the nearest airport. From there, a short taxi or bus ride takes you to the port of Sami on Kefalonia, where frequent ferries cross to the port of Pisaetos on Ithaca. During the summer season, direct ferries also run from mainland ports such as Patras and Astakos, which can be a convenient option if you are travelling overland.

Once you arrive, renting a car or scooter is strongly recommended. Roads between the villages are steep and winding, and public transport is limited, so having your own transport gives you far more freedom to reach beaches, trailheads and monasteries.

Practical tips

• Book ferries and accommodation well ahead for the summer months, when the island is busiest.
• Check ferry schedules locally, as timetables change with the season and can be affected by weather.
• Hire a car or scooter early, and drive carefully on the steep, narrow mountain roads.
• Carry water and sun protection on hikes, and check trail conditions before you set out.
• Bring water shoes for the pebble beaches and a light layer for cooler evenings.
• Respect monastery dress codes and local customs, and leave no litter behind.